Travel Safety
What every traveler with dogs should know

Dog Scouts of America has generously given us permission to reproduce this article from their handbook to aid you whenever you travel with your Schipperke. 
For more information about Dog Scouts of America, check out their site at
www.dogscouts.com

The purpose of this badge and training is to increase awareness of safety practices, responsible ownership practices and accident/emergency prevention and preparedness. By taking a few simple steps prior to leaving home with your dog, you can greatly decrease the likelihood of having to deal with an emergency situation and will be able to increase your dog’s safety.

Responsible Ownership:

• This badge is also intended to increase awareness of why responsible ownership is so important. Whenever you and your dog are out of your home, you could be in the eye of the public. Your neighbors, friends, family and total strangers will watch how you interact with and care for your dog. If you maintain responsibility and kindness, those on-lookers are likely to say and think good things about you and your dog. If instead you fail to clean up after your dog, allow him to bark incessantly, allow him to run up to people that might be afraid of dogs or allow him to run loose where it is illegal, you can bet those same on-lookers will not think very highly of you or your dog. It is these irresponsible actions that cause dogs to be banned from parks and public places. It is also irresponsibility that has many hotels closing their doors to pet owners. Dog Scouts does not want to see that happen. Your positive and responsible actions can help reverse the bans and negative attitudes of some members of the general public, allowing dogs to be welcome in more places. You should always set a good example of a responsible owner with a well-behaved dog.  This will help other dog owners see the possibilities and help lead by example.
  
  Here are some examples of responsible ownership:
   

• Clean up after your dog (& other irresponsible owners). This includes pet waste, vomit, loose hair and any dirt or debris your dog might bring in.

• Always carry clean up supplies with you.

• If staying in a hotel, also have supplies for clean up of dog hair (such as a hand held vacuum or rotating brush type sweeper) and clean up of any wet accidents such as urine, vomit or diarrhea.

• Always dispose of your pet’s waste properly (don’t put it into an indoor trash container)

• Carry a sheet or blanket to put over the hotel bed(s) or floors to keep your pet’s hair contained.

• Never leave your dog alone in a hotel room or allow him to bark repeatedly.

• Be sure your dog moves through the hotel halls with you as quietly as possible or ask for a room with outside access.

• Ask for a ground floor room in a hotel so that no one below the floor of your room can be disturbed by your dog’s paws thumping across the floor.

• Obey all leash laws and other rules.

• Teach your dog proper manners and greeting behaviors.

• Learn to properly manage your dog and his surroundings to keep your dog safe and happy. Learn how to control all interactions between your dog and any people or other animals he meets.

• Teach your dog to travel quietly.

• Think of yourself and your dog as ambassadors for all other dogs to follow in your footsteps.

Identification:

The best way to recover a lost dog is having a means of identifying your dog and letting the person that finds him know how to get in touch with you. Your dog should always have some form of identification on him at all times. You have several options to choose from for this purpose.

Collar tags are well known, visible and easily recognized by everyone. The drawback is that they can come off of the collar or the entire collar may come off the dog. 

Tattoos are also popular and are always on the dog. They are inexpensive and the dog does not have to be sedated during the tattoo process. To find a person to put a tattoo on your dog, check with your vet or with some of the tattoo registries. Tattoo-a-pet is one such registry that can put you in contact with a person near you. They also offer a registration service for your pets and a 1-800 number that can be used by anyone that finds your pet.  A caution about tattoos, you will need to keep the tattoo area shaved to keep the mark visible. It is also recommended that the tattoo be put on an area of the dog that cannot be easily removed, such as his belly or upper thigh. Unscrupulous dognappers have been known to cut off tattoos on a dog’s ear.

A third means of identification for your dog is micro chipping. This is relatively new and can be done by your vet without sedating the dog. A microchip is a small implant that carries information and is usually injected between the dog’s shoulder blades or at the base of his neck.

Scanning the dog with a special receiver retrieves the information. Many shelters and vets offices have the scanners. The drawback of the microchip is that not every location has a scanner and because it is not a visible means of identification it could be missed if a ‘helpful stranger’ who thinks they found a stray takes in your dog. The best means of identification for your dog is a combination of the above methods.

If your dog were to get lost, would he come to a stranger?  If not, his chances of being recovered diminish significantly.

Teach your dog that it is OK to approach a stranger and let them detain him. If you are afraid that teaching your dog this behavior will increase the chances of him going with a dognapper, keep in mind that it is much more likely for a stranger to use this to save your dog’s life than to steal him.  If you got into an accident on the highway and your dog got loose, wouldn’t you prefer that your dog could be called and detained than to have him run (possibly into traffic)? 

Play the recall game with your dog. Have a few strangers stand in a circle around your dog (close at first, then gradually widen the circle). Have each person call the dog and give him a reward. Avoid calling in a pattern, try to keep the dog guessing about who will call next. Then have each person hold the dog’s collar after they call him (briefly at first, then for longer), and then reward the collar hold. It may be helpful to practice this exercise without the dog’s name and using a cue a non-dog person might use. They probably won’t know the dog’s name and probably won’t give a “cue”. Play this game saying things like “Here puppy, puppy, puppy” or “Come here” (said sweetly--not as a cue). Once the dog is responding and allowing the collar hold, hide the rewards in another location and when the dog is called, have the person lead the dog by the collar to the reward.

Secure Travel:
Anyone that has been in a car with a dog that is barking or jumping around knows how distracting and annoying it can be. It is not safe for the dog or the people in the vehicle (or the other people on the road that could be hit while the driver is distracted). Dogs should be secured when they travel to protect them in the event of a crash.

Crates near the center of the vehicle are a good idea. Avoid putting your crates in the back of the vehicle since this is the area most likely to get crushed if the vehicle is rear-ended. In a van, if there is nothing between the crate and the back of the seats, it can become a deadly flying object in the event of a front impact. Crates should be secured to the vehicle to keep them from flying around in the event of a roll over accident. Hard-sided crates such as those approved for use on airlines and made of plastic are the safest. Soft crates should be used only as a last resort because they offer no ‘crush’ protection and are nearly impossible to secure to the vehicle.

Another option is a doggie seat belt. There are several brands on the market, but not all are rated for impact. Most are only to secure the dog and keep them from jumping around.  In the case of a crash, the buckles or stitching on these types of harnesses can break, leaving your dog unsecured and possibly causing injury.

There are seat belts for dogs that are made and tested for impact. The C.A.R.E. (Canine Auto Restraint Equipment www.CanineAuto.com ) harness is one such brand and they are very reasonably priced. Their large dog model looks strong enough to restrain a horse!  They also have two different attachment options (seatbelt or stationary).

If you choose to use a seatbelt harness for your dog, you will need to be sure he won’t back out of it and can’t get tangled in the attachment lines. The biggest complaint about the harnesses that attach to the vehicle’s seatbelt is that the dog tends to get tangled when he turns around. One way to avoid this is to get an equine trailer tie and attach it to a solid piece of the vehicle (like around the back of a bucket seat or snapped to where the seat is attached to the vehicle). The trailer tie may be ‘overkill’ for a toy breed, but should be considered for any dog over 20 lbs.

In a 30mph collision, the occupants exert 20 times their body weight on any restraint system. This means that the harness and tie for a 20 lb dog has to be able to hold 400 lbs of sudden force! Does your dog’s seatbelt look like it can hold that? What about the side of your crate? Consider that when you are selecting the restraint system for your dog.  All the components have to be able to withstand a huge sudden force.  If your dog is not restrained, he is a missile that is likely to go through the windshield or hit the dashboard with tremendous force.

You should also be able to get your dog out of the car quickly in case of a fire or other hazard like a chemical spill. The quick release snaps on the equine trailer ties are great for this!

If a door of your vehicle was jammed, could you still get the dog out? Be sure that if you use a crate, you don’t limit the dog’s exit to only one door. The other reason for restraining your dog is to minimize distractions. You should be keeping your eyes on the road while you drive, not on your dog that is getting into your luggage or jumping from seat to seat. By restraining your dog, you don’t have to worry about what he is doing or getting into. This allows you to be a safer driver and less likely to get into a collision.

Your dog should learn to ride quietly. Sudden or incessant barking is a distraction and annoyance.  If you are aggravated by your dog’s actions or barking, you are more likely to exhibit road rage, which can be deadly. 

Covering your dog’s crate can keep him from barking at every thing you pass. With the help of a friend to drive, you can work on teaching your dog that riding quietly is more rewarding that barking his fool head off.  Start out of the car by teaching your dog the “speak” cue, then of course the “quiet” cue. Teach ‘speak’ by saying it just before any action that will cause the dog to bark (like a knock at the door) and reward him for barking. Then as the dog settles and is likely to comply say ‘quiet’- reward the quiet.

Once you have the “quiet” behavior on cue, you can get in the car. When the dog barks at something, say quiet and put a treat or favorite toy right in front of his nose and use it to get him to look away from the ‘trigger’ so that he takes his attention from it, then give him the reward. You could also practice this solo by parking near an area that causes the dog’s triggers to go past the stationary window.

If the dog barks at people going by, park near a sidewalk where people frequently walk. If it’s other dogs, try to park on a street where people walk their dogs (summer evenings parked at a curb in most suburban neighborhoods will work). The key is giving the quiet cue, then distracting the dog from the trigger, getting a few moments of quiet and attention from the dog and then rewarding. You may have to start with the trigger barely visible (far away) before you can progress to keeping the dog’s attention when the trigger is passing right by the window.

Emergency Preparedness:

Even with plenty of precautions, accidents still happen. Being prepared will help you cope with an emergency and handle it, instead of falling apart or not being able to help at all. You should always carry a first aid kit in your vehicle and keep some first aid supplies with your dog’s ‘travel gear’. Having the supplies won’t do you any good, however, if you have not learned how to use them. The Red Cross offers courses in Pet First Aid and the requirements for the Dog Scout First Aid badge will also help. The following are items that should always be carried in your first aid kit::

• Vet Wrap or other type of bandaging material,

• gauze or other sterile and absorbent material for bleeding,

• muzzle,

• hydrogen peroxide or other means for wound cleaning,

• 2 or more paint stir sticks or other items to make a splint suitable for your size dog,

• a blanket that can be used as a sling to carry an injured pet,

• an extra collar and leash (a slip lead can fit any size pet), and

• Benedryl or other antihistamine in doses your dog can handle. 

Of course many more items could be added, but the above items will get you through most trauma well enough to transport the dog to a vet for care.

Another consideration is informing others about the care of your pet in case you are unconscious or so severely incapacitated that you cannot communicate your wishes. If you were to die in an auto accident with your dog in the car, would the emergency personnel know whom to contact? This information should be prominently displayed in your vehicle (in a place emergency personnel will see it). It can be placed in an envelope marked “FOR EMERGENCY PERSONEL” or “IN CASE OF EMERGENCY” a white or bright colored envelope is best (not red), just in case there is little light available. You could even put reflective tape on it. Be sure that wherever you put the envelope, it is likely to remain there if your airbags deploy or the vehicle flips over.

Put the most important facts first (See example page). You can attach more detailed info that can be given to whom ever will be caring for your pet till the person you designate arrives, but keep the critical info as easy to read and locate as possible. You should also include several color copies of photos of your dog that have the dog’s info and your contact information on the back. If your dog gets lost while you are away from home, you can hand out these photos to people in the area. Emergency personnel could also use the photos if your dog escapes from an auto accident. You don’t want to wait till you are out of the hospital or your contact person arrives before a search for your dog is started.

Special considerations:

If your dog has ‘issues’ you may want to display them on his crate or tape a note to the vehicle window. Things like “Shy Dog” or “Dog Will Bite” or “Special Diet” or “Dog Needs Meds” can help people that may need to help your dog. You can explain the issues in more detail in an attachment to the emergency info so that if your dog has to be in the care of a stranger, they will better understand his needs.

Travel to some destinations will have special requirements and considerations.

The Beach – If you don’t live near a beach and you decide you want to take your dog for a visit, be sure that you check in advance to see if dogs are allowed on the beach. Also keep in mind that salt water in large amounts can cause vomiting and explosive diarrhea. Burned paw pads from hot sand is another hazard as are washed up jellyfish and fishing hooks.

Arid locations – The southwest is beautiful but poses some unique hazards. Because of the high temperatures, heat stroke is more likely. Be sure your dog stays cool and drinks plenty of fluid (keep lots of water in your car in case you break down and have to wait by the side of the road!). Scorpions and snakes are more commonly encountered too. Perhaps a snakebite kit should be included in your first aid kit. Grass burrs thrive in warmer climates so tweezers are a good idea too. If you are in the desert region, keep in mind that the nights can get very cold with as much as a 70 degree difference in temperatures between night and midday.

Cold locations – If you will be traveling to a destination where freezing temperatures are possible be sure to put extra blankets in your car. You don’t want to freeze if you have car trouble and don’t get assistance right away. You may want to use a higher calorie food if your dog is not used to the cold or will be more active than usual. If your dog will be walking on snow and ice, consider booties to protect the pads on his feet. Check them often for cuts or snow pack if boots are not worn. Your dog might appreciate a warm coat too.

Out of the country – Many European destinations welcome pets and have much more open policies about pets in public places. If you plan to travel abroad with your pet, be sure to research the laws, regulations and customs of the areas you will be visiting. Some countries require that you get your dog’s health certified before you go. Travel agents may be able to provide you with contact information for your specific questions. If you plan to go on any guided tours or out to meals, where will your dog stay? You won’t be leaving him in a hotel room alone right?

By airplane – Dogs can travel by air, but rules and regulations vary by airline. Well in advance of traveling by air with your pet, be sure to contact the airlines to get a copy of their rules, policies and procedures for pets. Some dogs are small enough to travel in the cabin, but most airlines don’t allow more than one dog per flight in the cabin. If your dog is traveling as cargo, be sure you get a non-stop flight during a time of day when it won’t be excessively hot or cold while the plane is on the ground. Be sure your dog’s crate is well marked and that your dog is wearing plenty of identification.